Kiss the Blarney Stone, have a pint at the Guinness Brewery and stay in a castle on a wind-swept green hillside. But if you want to see real Ireland, make a stop here.
By Sheila Flynn, Associated Press Writer
One Family's Guide to Ireland
Ireland, by Tour Bus
In a country chock-full of shops catering to tourists, much of the nation's Northwest remains untouched. And it boasts astounding scenery, friendly locals with strong rural accents and a sleepy peacefulness despite being near a surprising number of things to see and do.
The town of Blacklion in County Cavan, population 166, borders Northern Ireland and is a perfect example of one of the Northwest's quintessentially Irish towns—complete with a one-street strip peppered mostly with pubs, a small tourist center and not much else. It is Blacklion's location in picturesque lake country, as well as its proximity to various attractions, that make it a perfect stop for relaxation and sightseeing.
A walking path, snaking up from the town between two rather unremarkable buildings, could easily be missed by passers-by. But the path marks an entrance to the Cavan Way, a 16-mile trail that leads hikers through hills and valleys, past everything from crumbling stone houses to Megalithic ruins (ancient structures made from giant slabs of stone). Points of interest along the Way include the Shannon Pot, the tiny body of water that marks the start of the country's famed Shannon River, and forests where you can find ancient tombs and stone monuments.
Even just a partial tour of the Way, up from the town and down back onto the main road, provides trailgoers with breathtaking elevated views of cottage-dotted hills and sparkling lakes, all the while leading them past sheep-filled pastures and hauntingly beautiful abandoned cottages—the overgrown, forgotten remnants of families who "bought steam," leaving the area to immigrate by ship to America, England or Australia.
"It's an area that I think doesn't get a lot of attention from visitors, which kind of makes it even more special," said Tourism Ireland spokeswoman Ruth Moran, citing the path's attractions "from ancient times."
"Just from walking along there, people say that they get goosebumps."
And hungry hikers won't be disappointed with the culinary offerings in Blacklion, which happens to boast one of the country's premier gourmet restaurants, MacNean House & Bistro. Celebrity chef Neven Maguire, a familiar face on Irish television who also happens to be a local, places particular emphasis on incorporating regionally grown ingredients into creative contemporary Irish cuisine—drawing dining connoisseurs from across the country to the village. Restaurant hours vary, however, so diners should plan carefully and call ahead.
Visitors interested in more casual fare can stop into any of the multiple pubs in the town for a toasted sandwich or stroll to the local chipper, serving greasy food and fries across the bridge—which is also across the border, in the equally small town of Belcoo, in Northern Ireland's County Fermanagh. Along the way they'll pass the beauty salon that used to be the local one-room schoolhouse, and on the return trip visitors can stop into Blacklion's version of a general store, selling everything from postcards to Wellington boots to dolls—and whose owner, Harold Johnston, can provide more than a few bits and pieces of local history and anecdotes.
A stop in the local bars, which occasionally offer traditional music, will also give visitors the opportunity to enjoy a pint and chat with the locals—who will hurry to put out their cigarettes (banned in pubs nationally) when new faces enter.
Other attractions include touring the Marble Arch Caves and lake fishing. But one of the most impressive activities is as simple as a leisurely drive west along N16, the route from Blacklion to Sligo. The road winds through County Leitrim beneath canopies of trees and provides views of misty valleys and mountains. Scenic overlooks invite you to stop and take the perfect photograph.
About halfway through the hour-long drive, look for a small sign on the right for Glencar Waterfall. A narrow, twisting lane leads down the valley to the 50-foot falls, nestled near a clear, quiet cove called Lough Glencar. The peaceful lake and tranquil falls inspired William Butler Yeats to mention the waterfall in his poem "The Stolen Child."
The county of Sligo, itself, is a bit more popular with travelers, famous for its association with Yeats—who grew up in the area and is buried at Drumcliffe, under the mountain of Ben Bulben, which can be seen from the N16 drive. Signs directing you to the grave are everywhere in Sligo, which also boasts the Yeats Memorial Building on Hyde Bridge and other attractions for literary pilgrims. Visitors have their pick of restaurants and shopping in Sligo's town center, too.
But it is the drive back to the country—with the silence, scenery and sweet scent of peat burning on a fire somewhere as you pass by—that prove most memorable and that represent the real Ireland so many visitors hope to find.
If you go…
IRELAND'S NORTHWEST: http://www.irelandnorthwest.ie/ or (011) 353-71-916-1201. Tourism offices for Ireland in the U.S., (800) 223-6470.
CAVAN WAY: A 16-mile trail between Dowra and Blacklion in County Cavan; details under "Environment & Wildlife" at http://www.countycavan.com .
MACNEAN HOUSE & BISTRO: Main Street, Blacklion, County Cavan. Phone (011) 353-71-985-3404. Accommodations are also available above the restaurant, with five en suite rooms, about $48.
MARBLE ARCH CAVES: Marlbank, Florencecourt, County Fermanagh; http://www.marblearchcaves.net . Open from late March through September.
SLIGO: http://www.yeats-sligo.com/index.html or (011) 353-71-914-2693. Yeats Memorial Building located on Hyde Bridge in Sligo. Annual Yeats "summer school," with poetry readings and writing workshops, July 29-Aug. 11.
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